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Officially, at least five thousand and ninety-eight migrants died in the Mediterranean last year, but Libya’s coastline is more than a thousand miles long, and nobody knows how many boats sink without ever being seen. “Follow it.” Each boat left with only enough fuel to reach international waters.
Several of the migrants had written phone numbers on their clothes, so that someone could call their families if their bodies washed ashore. In one dinghy, carrying a hundred and fifty people, a Nigerian teen-ager named Blessing started to cry. In recent years, tens of millions of Africans have fled areas afflicted with famine, drought, persecution, and violence.
Some wealthy businessmen travel with paramilitary escorts; police officers demand bribes at gunpoint, and crippled beggars crawl through traffic near the Oba’s palace, tapping on car windows and pleading for leftover food.
One day, I went to the Uwelu spare-parts market, where adolescent boys lift car engines into wheelbarrows, and bare-chested venders haggle over parts salvaged from foreign scrap yards. Blessing’s family used to own a house and a small plot of land.
Portuguese merchants traded with the Edo, and the Oba sent an ambassador to Lisbon.
European accounts of Benin City, written during the next several hundred years, describe a kingdom rich in palm oil, ivory, and bronze statues, but also one that engaged in slavery and human sacrifice.
As Nigeria’s economy has grown—spurred by oil extraction, agriculture, and foreign investment—so has the percentage of its citizens who live in total poverty.
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A dirt path at the western end of the market leads to a shack where I saw a middle-aged woman dressed in purple selling chips, candy, soda, and beer. Her father was a bricklayer, but he died in a car accident when Blessing was a little girl.
The family was close to penniless, and Doris was left to raise her four children alone.